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Thursday, December 29, 2011
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Sunday, December 25, 2011
Cambridge Audio DacMagic Digital-to-Analog Converter with USB, Silver
!±8± Cambridge Audio DacMagic Digital-to-Analog Converter with USB, Silver
Post Date : Dec 25, 2011 19:27:38 | Usually ships in 24 hours
Enjoy digital music like never before...Adapted Time Filtering (ATF) asynchronous upsampling technology might sound complicated but the benefits are instantly audible. Essentially it converts 16-24 bit audio to 24 bit/192kHz so you hear so much more from compressed material. Meanwhile a 32 bit Digital Signal Processor (DSP) eradicates jitter which is especially effective with hard disk playback from PCs or Macintosh computers. Whether your digital music collection is stored on a PC or you use a network music client - SqueezeboxTM, SoundBridgeTM, SonosTM etc - the difference in audible quality is incredible! Games just explode into lifeGaming isn't just about the moving image. By connecting your games console - PlayStations(PS2 and PS3TM), XboxTM and Xbox 360sTM to your hi-fi via DacMagic, dramatically improved soundtracks and special effects are immediately apparent. DacMagic is an audiophile tour de force!DacMagic sports a range of components you'd never dream could be crammed into such a compact case. These include a 32-bit Texas Instruments Digital Signal Processor (DSP), dual Differential Virtual Earth balanced filter topology and twin Wolfson WM8740 high quality DACs in dual differential mode for excellent stereo imaging. Other features include a choice of digital filters - linear phase/minimum phase/steep filter - and an incoming sampling rate indicator which shows the original source quality. You can experiment with different filters for each source connected but DacMagic always remembers the last one assigned to that source. It's flexible and easy to set-upUp to two digital sources - network music devices, games consoles, CD/DVD players etc. can be connected concurrently using S/PDIF or Toslink inputs. Additionally, you can connect DacMagic directly to your PC using a USB connection (no drivers needed) and dramatically improve the quality of your digital music.
- USB input connects direct to PC without drivers to act as very high quality DAC/soundcard
- Two inputs with both SPDIF & Toslink sockets allow wide range of digital sources to be connected
- Singled ended phono and XLR balanced audio outputs
- Adaptive Time Filtering (ATFTM) asynchronous upsampling technology converts 16-24 bit audio to 24 bit/192kHz
- Twin WM8740 high quality DACs in dual differential mode for excellent stereo imaging
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
Comcast / Xfinity Cable Box DVR Sucks!
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Saturday, December 10, 2011
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Tuesday, December 6, 2011
Wirelessly Connect Your PC to Your Stereo Or TV
Caveat
Before I start I'll mention that I prefer to use a wired connection whenever possible. Wireless is subject to many sources of interference particularly in urban and some suburban areas where there are many different wireless signals that can interfere. Interference can come from cell phones and cellular phone towers. Even wireless devices in a nearby neighbor's home or apartment can cause interference.
Let's Get Started
I will show how to connect your PC wirelessly to your television. The best device I've been able to find for transmitting wireless audio to your stereo also includes a video adapter. The GWB-4000 Wireless PC to TV System by Grandtec was designed to allow computer presentations, games, and Internet browsing to be professionally shown on televisions or video projectors. The device is currently sold online for 9. (Wired connections can be done for under ).
Grandtec provides with a complete with all the cables and connectors you need to connect your PC to your television and stereo system. They also include manuals for setting everything up, but I'll discuss the process all the same.
Setup: Safety First
Remember to turn off your computer, stereo, and television when setting up this connection. Make sure the entire connection process is completed before turning on any of these devices. There's little risk of hurting yourself, but your home electronics are much more sensitive.
Setup: The Basics
The Grandtec GWB-4000 has two boxes. One connects to the audio and video outputs on your computer, and the other box can be connected to the audio and video inputs of your television, or to the audio inputs on your home stereo. If you have a home audio-video receiver as part of your home entertainment system, the box can be connected to it as well. Each box has its own power adapter.
As with all wireless devices, they work best when there are few obstruction between the transmitter and the receiver. The GWB-4000 has a range of 125 to 150 feet, but too many walls and heavy appliances directly between the two boxes will reduce the reception quality. I've found microwave ovens and refrigerators put up the greatest interference. Try to imagine a line drawn straight between the two boxes and observe if any appliances are directly on that line. If yes, try to position the boxes so the imaginary line is as unobstructed as much possible. Position the two boxes as close to one another as possible.
Setup: The PC Side
The GWB-4000 kit has a box which connects to the back of your computer. Though the box has a range of 100 feet try to position it so there are few obstructions between it and the box that connects to your television.
Looking at the picture at right, you connect the provided PC audio (sound) cable to the lime-green colored line out connection on the back of your PC, and the other end of that cable goes to the mini phone stereo connection on the box.
If you are connecting to your television, disconnect your computer's monitor cable from the back of the PC, the attach the provided VGA pass-through cable to the same connection on the PC. The other end of the cable connects to the scan converter connection on the box. You'll see there's a connection remaining on the pass-through cable for reattaching your PC's monitor.
Connect the power adapter to the PC box and wall outlet or power strip/surge protector.
Setup: The TV Side
The TV box: The box that connects to the television or stereo has composite video out connection (yellow). Attach the provided composite video cable from that connection to the video in connection on your television or home audio-video receiver. They also have an alternate S-video connection. Use the S-video cable if you can for better picture quality.
There are red and white RCA audio (sound) connections oon the box. Attach the RCA cables provided to the appropriate color connection (red to red, white to white) and do the same to the any available audio in on your television or stereo.
Some of the more expensive stereo receivers and television sets have multiple connections, and you may see connections labeled "Video In 1" and "Video In 2". If you are using the GWB-4000 kit for audio and video make sure if you connect to "Video In 1" that you also use "Audio In 1". Mismatching numbers will either result in video without sound, or sound without video.
Turning It All On
Turn on your computer and your stereo or television and follow the instructions provided with the kit for getting the best sound and picture results possible for your setup. There are several different channels your GWB-4000 can transmit on, and you'll want to find out which gives you the best results. Some urban areas might have more sources of interference. Also, be careful not to have the volume up to load on your TV or stereo, the initial volume levels on a PC can be loud and could damage your audio system on your TV or stereo, so always start out at a low volume before turning it up.
If you have any trouble, you might try contacting a home theater specialist in your area to help out.
Friday, December 2, 2011
VGA to RCA (Composite) Vs VGA to YPbpr (Component)
How do you connect your Computer to your TV?
Recently there is a lot of commotion about people dropping their cable companies and just plugging in their TV's into their computers and watching cable through their computers via Netflicks, Hulu, and about a thousand other providers out there. personally, I only watch a few shows and have no reason to pay for TV all day long if I only watch a couple hours a week. So the idea of plugging my computer into my TV is awesome. However, If people are anything like me, then they don't have nice fancy TV's that natively take the VGA or DVI connection from the computer.
When I looked at the back of my TV I found that my TV didnt have the connections I needed. All I have on my computer is that useless VGA connection (useless for my TV anyways...). Then the only connections I got on my television are Composite (RCA) or Component (YPrpb). A majority of people just give up at this point, but there are some of us that don't want to accept the reality of our situation, I wanted to connect my computer to my TV, and didn't care what I had to do.
Upon doing a little research I found you can get some little conversion boxes that turn that pre-assumed useless VGA connection into something useful. However, I found myself at a cross roads. On one hand there were the VGA to Composite converters. On the other hand there was the VGA to Component converters. Sure there are lots of little features on each that seem nice, but the major thing I noticed up front was, the price. Component is like, five times as expensive! It can't possible be worth it right?
If I must choose, which is best?
Upon doing a bunch of research, checking with friends, and a bunch of other stuff I was able to get the low down on these mysterious converters. What it really boils down to what you need it for. If you only wanted to watch YouTube videos or simple things like PowerPoint presentations where its all standard video or large text, then by all means get the VGA to Composite converter. I found that the VGA to Composite's quality is going to be somewhere around a nice VHS which is just fine for most applications. The reason it drops in quality so much is simply your going from a VGA connection which is a type of High-Def connection down to a composite which maxes out at a screen resolution of 480i. (Example: Your Nintendo Wii maxes out at this unless you have component connections)
To put that in perspective, on your computer screen, if you change that to 1024x768 (which is relatively low for most new computers) that resolution is going to be rather close to 720p. So that conversion to your TV is going to be a very large jump, going from 720p to 480i. For a lot of people this is like a night and day difference. Regardless on how nice your RCA converter is, it just wont look as great as the VGA connection. A lot of times you will see on pages saying that one is better then the other, but in reality, they are all the same, you just get some extra bells and whistles sometimes.
If you are wanting to surf the Internet, check your email, and pretty much do everything you do on your computer, on the television, then your going to want to go for a better connection like Component, HDMI, DVI, or a direct VGA connection. There are converters for each of these, and DVI can be natively converted right into HDMI if you got the connections. (Side note: You can get single link and dual link DVI to HDMI, little known secret is that, they are exactly the same despite what they may tell you.)
In my case, I don't have a fancy TV with those connections so I was mostly looking into VGA to Component. With component your going to get a very clear picture that you can usually set up to 720p or 1080i (people debate on which looks better so I list both). You will be able to surf the Internet and do whatever you would like to do on your computer on your TV just fine. Of course its not going to look as good if you were natively viewing a VGA to VGA or HDMI to HDMI connection but it will look way good. So depending on what you would like to use it for would be which one you would purchase.
If you're strapped for cash and all you want to do is watch YouTube or simple slide shows in a classroom, then composite would work great. If you want a high quality picture and you got a few extra dollars then by all means, go for component or better. You will be much more happy with the better connection, even though it does cost a bit more.
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Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Pyle Home PCVHDM49 Composite Video and S-Video to HDMI Converter
!±8± Pyle Home PCVHDM49 Composite Video and S-Video to HDMI Converter
Post Date : Nov 29, 2011 07:55:52 | Usually ships in 24 hours
Many new TVs are coming loaded with modern HDMI inputs, but few S-video or composite video jacks. This unit is the solution to that problem! It takes composite video/audio or an S-video input and upconverts to crystal-clear 720p HDMI video/audio. The signal isn’t merely enlarged – it’s processed through a motion-compensating 3D wavelet video coding technology to make the converted picture rich in color and more vivid. Compatible with both NTSC and PAL inputs. Runs on 110 or 220 V.
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Friday, November 25, 2011
The Simple Facts About the Digital TV Transition
By now you may have heard that February 17, 2009 is that date when the change will take place, but the fact is that date is the deadline when the major broadcasting stations must stop broadcasting the analog signals and must make the change to digital. This means that many of the stations are already broadcasting the digital signal now.
There are three ways in which people receive a TV signal.
o Using a Satellite provider
o Using a cable provider
o Over the air with either and indoor or outdoor antenna
The fact is that if you already have Cable or Satellite, the transition should not affect you at all. However if you are using an antenna, then there are some simple measures you will need to take in order to still receive a signal
Satellite already broadcasts, an all digital signal, and as long as you have a satellite receiver, nothing will change for you when the transition is made. Since a set-top box (receiver) is already required to receive a signal, all your sets will work fine regardless if the set is the newer digital type or the old analog type.
For those households that get their TV signals through their cable company, your current TV sets are connected to the cable either through a set-top box or the cable is plugged directly into your TV. People may also have some sets with boxes and others with just the cable connection
Since the FCC has agreed to allow cable companies to covert the new digital signals to analog signals that non-digital TV sets now receive, analog TVs in these cable homes will still be able to show a signal. Right now TVs will not require a set-top box until at least 2012.
As for the households without cable or satellite TV who still want to receive their TV signals for free, the answer is simple. All you need is an inexpensive DTV converter box, which will convert the new digital signals to analog signals. These boxes cost about .00 to .00 each, but homeowners can take advantage of the government coupon program that gives you a .00 credit toward the purchase of an approved convert box.
These boxes usually connect to the TV by way of the RCA jacks and you will need either rabbit ears or an attic or rooftop antenna to receive the signal into the box which then coverts the signal so that you can view the picture on the TV set. You do not have to go out and buy a new antenna if you already own one, because your existing antenna will work just fine. You will not have to replace your antenna with a DTV antenna, so don't be fooled into buying something you don't need.
There is one more option for over the air TVs and that is simply by a DTV with a built in tuner, and you will be able to receive the digital signal. Since almost all DTV sets are now HDTVs, you will have the added bonus of being able to receive any broadcast High Definition signals, which greatly enhances the picture. You will still however, need an antenna.
Here is one more bonus for those of you receiving your signal over the air; you will receive extra programming because of the multicast sub-channels that many broadcasters have to accompany their main broadcast channel.
In conclusion, as long as you make use of any of the three methods for receiving and converting the signals mentioned above before February 17, 2009, you won't be without a TV picture on your set.
Thursday, November 24, 2011
How to Convert VHS Tapes to DVD Format?
Introduction Step 1: Download and install Video Capture Step 2: Launch it and select video format Step 3: Assign an output folder Step 4: Define video device input Step 5: Start Capture Step 6: Convert video and burn it onto DVDIntroduction
You are likely to have the boxes of VHS tapes that might contain different events of your life, exclusive musical gigs filmed or some other incredible things you witnessed years ago. It's time to breathe new life to them and bring them up to date. The idea is to capture your video using Web Camera Video Capture first and then convert and burn it onto DVD with the help of Video Converter. Rely on the guide and you will meet no difficulties.
Step 1: Download and install Web Camera Video Capture
Download Video Capture, runit and follow the installation wizard instructions.
Step 2: Launch Video Capture and select video format
Note: first of all you will have to deal with connecting your VHS recorder/player to the computer using a video capture device as a go-between:
If you use an external video capture board supplied with RCA and S-Video jacks, the best way to link the devices is to connect the VHS recorder/player S-Video output with the video capture board S-Video input using the corresponding cable so to relay a video signal. To relay an audio signal use an RCA cable, connecting your VHS recorder/player RCA output with the video capture device RCA input but employing white and red jacks only. And then use a USB cable to connect the external video capture board to the computer USB port.
If you have a DV-camera and your computer system is supplied with an IEEE 1394 port then connect your VHS recorder/player to the DVI camera just in the same way as it has been described above and then connect the DVI camera IEEE 1394 port marked as DV In-Out with the computer IEEE 1394 port using the corresponding cable. Attention! Actions relating to connecting devices should be done when they are off.
For all the details concerning the possible ways of connecting devices, please, refer either to the User Manuals bundled with them or manufacturer support team.
Run the Video Capture executable using the desktop shortcut or the Programs section of the Start menu. Make sure you work with the Capture tab. By default output video format is set to Recommended (MPEG-2), since your final goal is to have your video in DVD format, that suits fine although there is no reason why you should not select Native or MPEG-2 (with some other presets):
Step 3: Assign an output folder
Now define where the captured video should be saved to. Click (...) from the Output path section:
Choose a directory to place the captured video in and name the file: Press Save.
Step 4: Define video device input
Switch to the Settings tab. Drop down the Video Device Input control and choose either the Composite option in case your VHS player is connected to the capture device using an RCA input or the S-Video option if you preferred an S-Video jack:
Step 5: Start Capture
Note: before starting capture switch your VHS recorder/player on and check whether a VHS cassette is inserted into its compartment. If you use a DV camera as a capture device then:
Switch the DV camera on.
Make sure its cassette compartment does not contain a cassette.
Enable the DV camera AV to DV feature (refer to User manual for details) and then switch it to playback mode.Press the Start capture button of Video Recorder and begin the VHS recorder/player tape playback. You can stop capture by pressing the Stop Capture button which will replace the Start Capture button immediately after clicking it:
Note: pressing the Stop Capture button of Video Capture won't stop the VHS tape playback, you should do it yourselves.
Step 6: Convert video and burn it onto DVD
After having finished capture click the Convert icon in the Preview screen.
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Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Sewell Digital to Analog 5.1 Dts/ac-3 Decoder Surround Sound (Toslink/coax to Rca)
!±8±Sewell Digital to Analog 5.1 Dts/ac-3 Decoder Surround Sound (Toslink/coax to Rca)
Brand : Sewell DirectRate :
Price :
Post Date : Nov 22, 2011 08:39:46
Usually ships in 1-2 business days
Need to break out your 5.1 surround toslink/RCA digital audio into analog RCA connections? This high-end converter breaks it out for you with zero audio loss.Toslink and RCA Coax Digital SPDIF to RCA AnalogThere are a lot of A/V players out there (Blu-ray players, DVRs, Cable Boxes, video game consoles, computers, media boxes, etc.) that feature either toslink output or digital RCA output (known as SPDIF or RCA Coax). These digital signals that have the 5.1 surround sound channels embedded together can be separated out into multiple RCA connections for an audio receiver or sound system that takes analog RCA rather than optical or RCA digital.Superior QualityThis device specializes in one thing: separating out your 5.1 surround sound from a combined toslink or digital RCA connection. Since we focus on only one task with this converter, we've made sure that the fidelity holds true to the original sound production.